Taking Photos Tip

Flower Photography.

Read the previous tip on the "Six Secrets of Taking Great Photos". Your garden keeps changing and you will want to preserve the moment in time that reflects your flower's fullest beauty. Be observant as you walk around your garden. Don't hesitate to get your camera if you spot an interesting shot. If you wait too long, the lighting may change, your flower keeps changing, and you may forget.

Which camera works best, and why?
Almost any digital camera can take a nice photo of a flower, but the right camera makes it easier to get those special shots. Here are some important basic features to consider:

Megapixels. Pixels represent the colored dots that make up a digital image. A megapixel is a million pixels. In the early development of digital cameras, the number of pixels was important and was an indicator of image quality. This is no longer the case since most new cameras have at least 6 megapixels and to produce a good quality 8x10 only requires 3 megapixels. The more pixels you have the larger the print you can produce. More megapixels can be beneficial if you are going to do some drastic cropping of a digital image. Don't be fooled by salesmen on this issue.

Rotating image display. Some cameras have a rotating image display (LCD). It is important to be able to place your display at a 90 degree angle to your lens for low ground shots. The best cameras I found which have this feature is the Canon A630 and the Canon S3 IS. The Canon S3 IS is about $100 more than the A630 but has a 12X optical zoom with image stabilization.

Macro feature. The macro feature allows you to take up close shots. The camera specifications with indicate how close to the subject you can get using the macro feature. The majority of your flower shots will be with the macro feature.

Image stabilization. Most digital cameras with high end optical zoom will have the image stabilization feature. Image stabilization helps to steady the image projected back into the camera when there is hand shake. This is a necessary feature when your taking long shots.

Shooting your flower photos.
Be sure to read your instruction manual on the basic operation of your camera. In the beginning, forget any manual settings and just shoot with the automatic mode. After you get more comfortable with your camera, try just one new feature at a time to see what it does to your photos. Here are other things to consider:

Time of day. The best time of day is early morning or evening. The bright sun at midday will wash out the shadows and create harsh contrast. Midday is OK if it is overcast.

Windy conditions. Windy conditions will result in blurred images or your subject not framed properly. Its best to avoid taking photos under these conditions unless you're trying to get some special effect.

Keep it simple. Keep your shots simple. If it's too busy it will detract from your main subject. The subject needs to be the most prominent feature of the photo and the background not distracting.

Macro mode. Most of your great flower shots will be taken using the macro mode. Get very close to the subject and fill the frame without cutting off the subject.

Camera shake. When you're ready to take a shot, take a breath and hold steady. The camera shake problem gets worse in low light and you may need to use your flash. If standing, place your feet apart to steady yourself, support the camera with your left hand and tuck your elbows into your body. Find something to lean on and if possible to support your elbows. If everything fails to stop the shake, consider getting a tripod. Squeeze the shutter release gently, don't jerk the camera.

Subject not in center. There are times when the main subject is not in the center of your shot or that you want to take a shot and have the main subject to the side. This is done in this way: Place the main subject in the center of the frame, press the shutter release button half way and left the camera adjust the focus and exposure, then move your camera so you frame the subject where you want.